The Ionian
It was time for an annual summer holiday. This year Jamie and I were going to share it with my brother and his partner, Ed and Sarah. We booked a bareboat charter with nautilus from Lefkas. We were going to spend the week island hoping.
Day 1 (Sunday) Gatwick – Lefkas- Nydri
The holiday started with a very early flight from Gatwick, everything went like clockwork. We left home at 02:00 and arrived at Lefkas Marina at 11:30 (local time) our yacht (Wenna) was ready early so we headed down and settled in. Off to the supermarket to stock up for the week. This we later discovered was where we made a little error. In Greece all the supermarkets are shut on a Sunday, so the ones that are open are expensive and don’t have the best selection. Next time we will definitely not buy as much before hand and buy it along the way. But after last years sailing in Turkey where we didn’t see another supermarket in the whole week I thought it was a good idea to stock up. Food all stowed away we were off into Lefkas to start or holiday with a few beers and some lunch. After planning our route we decided to set sail. With my crew being very new to this (there first time on a yacht) we headed south under engine. We only cover about 5 miles and found ourselves a lovely place called Nydri to drop anchor and spend the night. After a very long day we were asleep almost as the sun went down.
Day 2 (Monday) Nydri – Sivota
Up for our first morning, we were swinging on an anchor all night so there were no boats around us. We had a nice breakfast and then stowed everything and headed to find somewhere to swim and have lunch. We found which looked like a nice spot to drop anchor for lunch. The only problem was it wasn’t that good. We tried 4 times to get the anchor to hold, which in the end it did. Then we jumped off and went for a swim, as it wasn’t too sheltered we kept getting caught in the current and looking up and the boat was miles away. But it was still nice the sea was so clear and refreshing. After lunch the wind had picked up so we set off under full sails heading for Sivota. We thought we were going to be quiet late but managed to find a nice little place against the quay. We were helped with our lines by the taverna owner which made us decide where we were going to eat. It was a lovely evening and good food, Ed was really impressed as the guy gave us free drinks. As our boat was right next the table we went back and had another drink sitting on deck.
Day 3 (Tuesday) Sivota – Fiskardo
Breakfast on deck, with the wasps! Then we were off to try another island Cephalonia. But before that we need to find somewhere nice to swim and have lunch. We picked a little bay south of Lefkas just around the corner from Vasailiki. This time we managed to put a shoreline on and get nice and close to the rocks. It was nicely shelter which made the swimming really nice for everyone. We even managed to spot a bright orange starfish in among all the urchins. After a nice lunch we headed of and put the sails up. What started of as a really gentle breeze ended up with a great sail over to Fiskardo (Cephalonia) we even managed to put a reef in. We found a great little spot on the quay at Fiskardo we were all just winding down on deck when we came across our only really rude people on the trip. They spotted a three foot gap at the side of out boat and decide they would squeeze there 34’ yacht into it. It was a very tight fit and it resulted in everyone moving and getting very annoyed with them. So time to leave them to it and grab a beer. We found a great place to have diner I can’t remember the name but it was the furthest taverna around to the right on the quay. They were really friendly and the food was great. They also managed to impress Ed as this time we ended up with a fee desert
Day 4 (Wednesday) Fiskardo – Agia Eufimia
Up for another breakfast with the wasps! I headed out to get the fresh bread and more provisions. After last nights Greek deserts set me of, the bakers had some great baklava, I couldn’t resist. We slipped our lines again and off to find more places to swim. With Sarah at the helm we motored over the first bay we could find. As we were early there wasn’t anyone about, we thought that maybe it wasn’t that nice a place, It took as a little while to get the anchor down and the shoreline on. But once that was all done we had a great swim with loads to see. We were going to have lunch on the go but all of a sudden loads of boats started to come into the bay. What entertainment, watching them try and anchor. Most of them just didn’t have a clue, a couple of them dropped the anchor and while it was still dropping they put it full in astern I thought god I hope there anchor hold or they are going to end up running aground on the beach. Of to catch the wind, we have a great sail down to Eufimia. We were now still on Cephalonia but in the south in a much bigger place. We found one of the remaining spots to moor, it just happened to be outside the local Karaoke bar! We could see straight away this wasn’t the nicest place we have stayed. We struggle to pick our place to eat but we settle for the busy one. We ordered the worse bottle of wine I have ever tasted, but the lady was nice enough to change it. Then Ed’s dinner turned up, he order fish with garlic sauce. It turned up with what looked like mash potato it was pure garlic, very strange. Good job we had our baklava to eat from the morning. Back at the boat it got worse, trying to sleep to the Karaoke…
Day 5 (Thursday) Agia Eufimia – Kioni
Breakfast again with the wasps! For a change there was wind this morning so we headed out as soon as possible. Put the sails up and had a great little sail, but as we rounded the head land of Ithika the wind died totally so on came the engine. Everywhere we thought of to stop and have lunch and a swim seemed crowded so we decided to just keep plodding on to our nights stop. But being under engine and having no wind it was just too hot. Ed was asleep down below, so we just stopped the engine about 7 miles offshore in 200 meters of depth and the three of us dived in. At this point my brother woke and threw the tender over and we had a great 30 mins playing around. With the engine back on we headed into Kioni. This was a nice little place and there was a great little spot that we could drop anchor and not be too close to other boats. Once we were all tied up we decided that even though it was a harbour the sea was so clear we had to swim. Ed’s took the guardrails off the bow and we were back to attempts at diving. We had a lovely meal as the sun was setting. It was a nice little place to stay, only all night we seemed to get loads of wash from the passing ferries.
Day 6 (Friday) Kioni – Kalamos
Having had enough of the wasps, oh and me flicking one at Sarah, which stung her we decided we would slip our lines and eat breakfast on the move. So we were on our way, Sarah had prepared loads of nice fruit and breakfast was all laid up on deck. Just as we were eating I knocked the table, which then collapsed. What a mess, but the worse was the lid was off the honey, sticky mess opps! The wind was very light in the morning so we mostly motored to Kalamos and headed for a little place on the south east coast, can’t remember the name. It was a deserted town which was ruined in the earthquake, the only thing that remains in tacked was the church which the locals come back to every Sunday. It was very busy but we managed to find somewhere to drop anchor. Jamie was at the helm and was having a go at parking, he was doing a really good job and all that was needed was Ed to swim the line shore. Just about to go he slipped and split his toe (an excuse I think) because he could see that it wasn’t very nice. It was the worse place we have stopped it was really dirty with lots of rubbish in the water. With the wind picking up we were of to Kalamos under full sails. Jamie was going to park us again this evening. We managed to get right to the entrance under sails, even though Jamie was getting really nervous. But he did a great job even thought someone on the shore was trying to tell him what to do, I wouldn’t have minded if the guy on the shore knew what he was talking about. We were helped with our lines by a guy called George. Who I have later found out owns pretty much the whole place. That night we sat watching a great sunset eating mezze, not a bad way to spend your time.
Day 7 (Saturday) Kalamos – Lefkas
Last day… Not stopping for breakfast we were up dressed and slipped our lines early. We knew there were loads of crossed anchors and we wanted to head out before all the commotion kicked off. Another breakfast on the move, the sea was like a millpond but somehow with the full sails up we managed to find a little bit of wind. I also was very careful not to knock the table. After breakfast we found a little more wind and were heading around the top of the island. For lunch we were going to a place called little Vathi on Meganisi. It was a quite little place with a bar. There were loads of fish around the boat so we started feeding them while Sarah was swimming. Then Ed decide to go in he headed away from the boat stopped looked up and his eye we really wide, I’ve never seen him move so fast. He pushed past Sarah and got to the boat and said "I don’t know what I saw but it was BIG!". Then he wouldn’t go back is, wuss. So it was time to go back the wind was great so full sails and off we went. We were enjoying the sailing so much we sort of forgot the time and realised that we were very late back. We made it back just in time for fuel. We moored up and headed out once again in Lefkas for some food and drink.
Day 8 (Sunday) Lefkas – Gatwich
We handed the boat over, with my list of defects. There were a few little things wrong with the boat which were very annoying. But I think you seem to find these thing all over the place. However 2 of the things that were wrong I found to be slightly dangerous. The stove wouldn’t stay alight from day one, I was told by Yannis the man in charge to wedge a fork in it … We also had no seat at the back of the cockpit, which as we were all adults it didn’t matter but if we had children on the boat I would not be happy. But the handover went smoothly. We then had a few hours to kill in Lefkas. Then off to the airport, which in Excel airways true fashion ended up being an extra couple of hours to kill as they delayed the plane… As there was a traverna over the road from the airport and it was only a couple of hours it wasn’t too bad. All in all I think the 4 of us had a great time. I’m sure and I hope we will do it again soon.